Wine presentations in Sarasota are fun events. Everything about winter seems to demand a big, bold, emphatic red wine. Even here in Florida. Among my favorites are blends that are marketed in America as Claret.
Now the word Claret is actually a British term referring to red wine which follows the production guidelines of the Bordeaux blend, chiefly combining juice from Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot grapes. The use of the term “claret” dates back to 16th century England, and is a derivative of the French “clairet.”
Bordeaux, of course, is a blended wine made in the Bordeaux region of France. Production standards, regulated by the national government, requires the blend be limited to one, some or all of the following grape varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Malbec and Petit Verdot (occasionally Carménère).
But Claret is not recognized as an “official” wine category in the USA, where such blends are generally just referred to as Blended Wine dominated by either Cab or Merlot. There is also the American term Meritage, but that title is only appropriate when used by members of the Meritage Alliance to describe their Bordeaux blends. Confused yet? Completely understandable. So let’s get back to Claret.
Today there are a number of winemakers who offer a product which they call Claret. Many are quite good and will appeal to those who enjoy a spicy red. Generally these wines are full-bodied and aromatic, with a nose of blueberries, cassis and cedar. Flavors of black currant, tobacco and spice are typical, intermixed with chocolate and providing a long, rich long finish.
One of the most well-known is Francis Coppola’s Black Label Claret. This product is mass produced and readily available in most supermarkets for about $12 – $15. While I am a great admirer of Mr. Coppola as a filmmaker, my esteem regresses when it comes to his winemaking. This is a shame since he purchased the great old Inglenook winery which had a storied tradition of producing great wine. Dear Francis has turned it into a tourist attraction dedicated to the reverence of… Francis Coppola. He does make some excellent wine, but alas not in this price category.
One should also beware of a Claret made by Bonny Doon. Its winemaker, Randall Grahm is legendary. However, he distorts the recipe of the blend including Syrah, Tannat and Petit Sirah – none of which are traditionally allowed. The wine is interesting and worth a look. But should not be confused with traditional Claret.
If all this sounds interesting to you, here are a few suggestions:
Newton California Claret… $20 – $25
Ramey Napa Claret… $30 – $35
St. Francis Sonoma Claret… $14 – $17
Steltzner Napa Claret… $15 – $18
Happy New Year!